Lexington Market Edition #1, #9, #10 and #52

I finally experienced some culture shock in Baltimore.

        My dad has warned me against going to Lexington Market (on Lexington Street in West Baltimore) without him and I’ve been pretty exasperated as of lately, as I’d been to the general area several times of late for other blog adventures. Before this afternoon, I thought myself capable of walking anywhere in the city at almost any time without any sort of shock or apprehension. I guess I have been a little more sheltered than I thought.

        Lexington Street is actually a tough area. Driving through a neighborhood is nothing compared to walking the streets; seeing people up close instead of flying by them in your car, smelling and hearing everything, avoiding panhandlers, if you’re me, experiencing a culture that is so unlike your own you are shocked in the realization that it is less than ten miles from your quiet suburban neighborhood. Lexington Street is what some of my black friends refer to as “the hood.” It is a predominantly African-American, low-income city neighborhood with above-average crime rates and dilapidated buildings that brings to mind scenes from “The Wire.” Walking into the market, I was hyper-aware of my appearance: skinny white girl in skinny-white girl, preppy clothes and preppy sunglasses. Suddenly and for one of the few times in my life, I felt like the absolute minority. Someone who in no way blended in, in an almost uncomfortable way. You may hear about these feelings in anthropology classes and brush them off or think of them as things you only feel in “exotic” field locations, but I can honestly say I have felt those feelings twice now in the same county, state and country I have lived in all my life.

Lexington Street was not always been the inner-city neighborhood it is today. Lexington Market was a famed shopping district in Baltimore since the 18^th century, home of various department and clothing stores and Lexington Market. The area was also home to a luxury hotel, The Utah House until 1835 when it was replaced with another high-class establishment: The Hippodrome Theater, which was the home to fine arts and one of the most popular Vaudeville destinations in the Mid-Atlantic. Lexington Market, however, was the heart and soul of the area; it is the longest continuously running market in the country, established in 1782 on the original site on land donated by General John E. Howard (who Howard County is named after). What was originally called the Western Precincts Market was an open air market, with farmers from Towson and Reisterstown (farm land back in the day…) pulling their wagons onto the property and selling their wares. In 1803, the market expanded from Eutaw Street all the way down to Lexington Street, the market’s current namesake. Eventually a building with stalls was built as business blossomed and more and more product was sold. Lexington Market became part of the famed Baltimore City Public Market system, including the Hollins, Cross Street, Broadway and Old Town markets, many of which are still open as well.

The downfall of the area came not from the fire of 1949 that destroyed the Hippodrome, but from the riots of 1968 when Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated. After the riots, urban areas throughout the country deteriorated as product of “white flight;” wealthy businesses moved out of the areas in fear of more violence and unease.

Regardless of the changes in the area, Lexington Market remains as popular as ever, albeit differences in both vendors and customers. The goods sold have expanded from fruits, vegetables, meats and fishmongers to 140 vendors selling all that as well as baked goods, international cuisine, soul food, deli’s, candy, etc. Some of Baltimore’s most well-known hometown favorites have stalls here such as Rheb’s Candies, Mary Mervis Deli, Polack Johnny’s, Faidley’s Seafood and Berger’s Bakery.  

My trip to Lexington Market was not a leisurely stroll through the booths, but rather a mission: I was out to find an authentic chicken box, compare it to ANOTHER chicken box, sample some fried chicken livers and, drum roll please, a famous Faidley’s crab cake

- 9. Get a chicken box (fried wings, western fries, dinner roll) from a Baltimore City public market.

- 10. Maybe the chicken box should be from Tyrone's?

-52. Fried chicken livers from the Lexington Market

- 1. Have a jumbo lump crab cake from Faidley's on a Saltine.

 I was accompanied by my whole family and my dad’s father, my Pop, a retired Baltimore City Mounted Police officer and, like my parents, an old hand at Lexington Market. We split up, a la Scooby Doo, and met in the food court with our findings. While my sister and grandfather opted for huge deli sandwiches, my brother and I both came back with chicken boxes, his from Tyrone’s, mine from Park’s. His box included white bread and two breasts and two slices of white bread and mine had two thighs, two legs and collard greens (which were phenomenal). A traditional chicken box has a half a chicken, white bread and “western fries” but I was more concerned about the flavor of the chicken. Park’s chicken had a thick and crunchy crust and was doused in hot sauce. The meat was dark but just as juicy and tender as any white meat I’ve ever had. Tyrone’s chicken has a bit of a thinner crunchier crust and was the biggest chicken breast I have ever seen in my life. Personally, I think Park’s is the best because of the thick crust but with the plethora of locations where fried chicken is sold in the market, I’m sure my opinion is a bit unreliable.

My last stop in the market today was Faidley’s, which is a Baltimore institution in itself. Not only is Faidley’s is the oldest vendor in Lexington Market, but it may be one of the oldest family-run businesses in the city. Faidley’s is has its own wing in Lexington market, complete with several counters and a raw bar. Founded in 1886 by John W. Faidley, Sr., the seafood has become somewhat of a legend in these parts.

In search of a crab cake, I made my way to one of them and struck up a conversation with the woman helping me. I told her about my blog and she said to me “If you wanna talk to the boss, she’s right there,” pointing to a stately looking older lady at another counter, dressed nicely but still wearing rubber gloves and a Faidley’s apron. A golden opportunity for an interview with the best possible informant I could ask for. I introduced myself to Ms. Nancy Devine, nee Faidley, and asked her if there were any interesting about Faidley’s I had not read online. She told me that she was third generation in a family that sold seafood at Lexington Market, originally just selling fish and other seafood, not yet cooked food. She told me that the market had been popular for everyone in the city and that alumni of University of Baltimore Law School and The UMD Medical, Nursing and Dental schools sometimes met at Faidley’s for reunions, bringing back memories of walking here for lunch when they were just students. She told me that Faidley’’s crab cakes had become such an institution, she personally provided crab cakes to ex-Senator Barbra Mikulski for a birthday luncheon, who’s astounded invitees included female senators from all over the nation; they had never had a crab cake like Faidley’s and were shocked to hear they came from a public market and not a gourmet restaurant.

All in all, Ms. Nancy reminded me of Lexington Market and Baltimore: elegance found in the most unusual setting and not someone you would want to mess with, despite her age. Lexington Market and the city of Baltimore have changed around her for years, but she and Faidley’s are still there and just as successful as ever.

Lexington Market is a testament to the fact that sometimes the best and most authentic foods are found in areas not frequented by tourists (or even more wealthy residents), but low-income areas where the culture of a city is least affected by the effects of globalization like sushi, iphones and Starbucks. What is left is authentic food; the recipes handed down for generations and sold at low prices. The people that serve it are hardworking and experienced, often having done this for most of their lives, and friendly as anything, “Hon’s” and “baby’s” flying around as they only can in this city. The market and the food sold inside have become deeply ingrained into the local culture, as one can see by how well known the food is and the generations of people who flock to the market to eat it. Who can blame them? The food is quintessentially Baltimore; one only has to be a little braver and more open-minded to get to it.

Terms:

Culture shock: The feeling of disorientation experienced by someone who is suddenly subjected to an unfamiliar culture, way of life, or set of attitudes

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexington_Market

http://www.baltimoresun.com/topic/services-shopping/lexington-market-PLTRA0000130.topic

http://www.faidleyscrabcakes.com/story.html

http://www.france-merrickpac.com/history/index.html

http://www.lexingtonmarket.com/



#78 & #30. Go to Wockenfuss Candies and eat a caramel apple! Mmmmm.

It’s not hard to have a sweet-tooth in Baltimore.

        Between snowballs, gourmet ice cream shops, a plethora of cake and cupcake bakeries (including a travelling cupcake truck and the Ace of Cakes) and more than a handful of home-grown candy companies (such as Naron, Mary Sue, Rhebs and Wockenfuss) there’s enough sugar here to kill a village of diabetics. Today, feeling kind of like a trip to the mall for a birthday ensemble, my mother and I decided to hit up Wockenfuss Candies for a post-work day sugar fix. We split a caramel apple (which was deliciously sour and sweet with soft, gooey caramel) and got some exotic looking, gourmet dessert truffles for later. The sugar has obviously kept me up very late.

        The Wockenfuss family immigrated to the United States from Germany in the late 19^th century and quickly set up shop (a candy shop) in the early 20^th century. From what I can gather, the family had previous experience and skill as chocolatiers and found a market and a booming economy in the growing port city of Baltimore, as well as a hungry and demanding customer base. The company is still owned by the family, specifically Paul Wockenfuss, and now has eight separate locations all over the Baltimore area including White Marsh, Bel Air, Columbia and Ocean City. Not much information can be garnered about the history of Wockenfuss, but it has become one of those popular Maryland companies that almost everyone knows and loves.

        With their local reputation, familiar product, decent prices ($3 for a caramel apple is less than I pay at the Arbutus Carnival… go figure) it’s no wonder than Wockenfuss has become a part of the culture around Baltimore. In fact, the store has made such a cultural impact to Maryland residents, it has been featured in a legitimate cultural artifact: a children’s book (look here!) by Denise Blum, “The Plot of the Perilous Pirate: Captain Smitty Takes Ocean City.”

        This is a short blog entry, no doubt. Sometimes it’s hard to find out the history of a store, its customer demographic or company statistics; many successful businesses don’t bother to publish that sort of stuff if no immediate gain can be made from its release. Obviously, people of Maryland aren’t particularly bothered by this. Wockenfuss Candy is popular enough to have eight locations and ship candy all over the country, which is a lot to be said for a chocolate company started in Baltimore by German immigrants a century ago. The history of this company is a long, successful one but I’ll leave this blog short and sweet. If you want to see how popular the chocolate is, go to the Mall in Columbia, stand in the perpetual line, buy some chocolate (if you’re lucky, from Katie Savin-Murphy will ring you up) and get lost in a bit of Baltimore bliss.

       ( On a side note, I also helped promote the spread of culture today by introducing my mother to bubble-tea. She loved it. The wonders of a Western shopping mall and its abilities for cultural assimilation…)

Terms:

artifact: an object made by humans, usually for a specific function or purpose

cultural assimilation: a social response to a multi-ethnicity demographic that promotes the absorbtion of many cultures into a single one

References:

http://www.wockenfusscandies.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wockenfuss_Candies

http://www.manta.com/c/mm3vty5/wockenfuss-candy-co

#68. Eat anything on the menu at Andy Nelson's.

Brendan and I went hog-wild today.

          And by hog-wild, I mean we ate a lot of barbeque (get your minds out of the gutter!). Today, Brendan finally earned me telling him he was right when he convinced me Andy Nelson’s Barbeque is, indeed, the best barbeque I have ever had.  I considered myself partial to Red, Hot n’ Blue, however their ‘que is the McDonald’s to Andy Nelson’s Ruth’s Chris. Andy Nelson’s is a delicious down south transplant cuisine-wise, but it is a Baltimore born and bred institution.

          Andy Nelson was not only a purveyor of finger-licking pork product, but a safety for the Baltimore Colts. Born in Tennessee (where he also played college football for Memphis State), he brought his southern football skills and barbeque recipes up north to Baltimore city. After his football career ended, Andy Nelson and his wife Betty opened up their Memphis-style barbeque restaurant on York Road in Cockeysville to instant success and acclaim.

          The three signature sauces (sweet, smoky barbeque, “Carolina Style” [made with mustard and vinegar], and pig-dipping sauce [hot sauce and vinegar-based, I do believe]) only add to the delicious, slow-cooked, divinely seasoned REAL barbeque served up in a simple manner with southern-style sides (collard greens, potato salad, cornbread, etc.).  Normally my blog is very specific on what kind of food I am to eat and/or how to prepare it, but truly, EVERYTHING at Andy Nelson’s is delicious. I sampled the dry-rub pork ribs, pulled pork, pulled turkey, beef brisket… and I really could not tell you which one was my favorite.

          Although the style of food at Andy Nelson’s is actually authentic to Tennessee, the food has been famous around Baltimore for almost as long as my parents have been alive. Although the restaurant is a little far north for some, the low prices and great food draw people from all over the region. The simple restaurant even has an outdoor barn-style room with picnic tables, making Andy Nelson’s accommodating and accessible to nearly everyone from business men to truckers. As for being culturally significant, the restaurant has been repeatedly voted Baltimore’s Best Barbeque and one of the top 15 restaurants in the area; Andy Nelson’s has become a Baltimore institution over the years and it doesn’t look like it’s going anywhere.

          Which is good for me because honestly, I could eat the pulled turkey BBQ and collard greens every day for the rest of my life. I even ordered an extra sandwich to take home for later. I hope you’re happy, Brendan, because your girlfriend is now an Andy Nelson’s porker.

References:

http://www.andynelsonsbbq.com/

#47. Order any sandwich at Trinacria.

Today has been a lazy, boring day.

          I had a day off but, since it is gloomy and rainy, I have been stuck on the couch watching soccer and a Super Nanny marathon. Thankfully my best friend/cousin combo saved me from monotony and took me out to lunch. I’m really starting to appreciate these daily lunch dates with family… Lunch today was unbelievably not boring and something that I would never had known about if not for this blog.

          On Paca Street, there is a small, hole-in-the wall, run-down looking storefront of a deli that, at first glance, appears to be closed. Pushing in the door, however, one is immediately transported into a Sicilian delicatessen. This blog tries to highlight authentic Baltimore culture, but this store is purely and authentically Italian. Fresh-baked crusty breads are stacked on shelves, home-made pastas and sauces crowding counter-tops, jars upon jars of fresh olives of every shape and variety, and a vat of homemade olive oil make the store visually and aromatically overwhelming in the best way possible.  It is only fitting that this small piece of Sicily is called Trinacria: the island of Sicily is often called the “Kingdom of Trinacria.” A trinacria, or a triskelion, is an ancient symbol of both Greece and Italy; when Sicily was part of Greece, the three-pointed symbol represented the three points of the triangular island. The symbol of the trinacria was also considered a cultural reference to the legend of the tables of Hephaestus: the Greek god had three-legged tables that could run around themselves, serving food to all the gods of Mount Olympus.

But I digress. Let’s get back to the food.

         You all are probably getting very tired of hearing the same old story, but Trinacria was opened by Sicilian immigrants in 1908 and sold fresh pasta, sauces, bread, deli meats and other Italian groceries to Baltimore residents, both Italian and non-Italian. Trinacria values its reputation as an old-world style Italian delicatessen and quality Italian groceries and food products for  relatively low prices; in other words, the average person in Baltimore could probably walk in, buy some pasta, sauce and a nice bottle of wine without too much trouble. It is this accessibility that allows Baltimore residents to absorb Italian culture and let it permeate into their own food culture, like the way a great tomato sauce is absorbed by slow cooking meatballs. In the end, Baltimore food is always flavored with a little bit of the other cultures that exist within the city.

          My only wish? That Trinacria lived up to its mythological namesake and deliver me another smoked turkey, mozzarella, roasted red pepper and artichoke Panini to my front door on a magic little three-legged table. Oh and some of those spicy red cherry peppers stuffed with goat cheese, too. Now that is the food of the gods.

'

References:

http://trinacriafoods.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triskelion

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hephaestus

#13 & #63. Corned beef on rye and a bologna-wrapped hotdog at Attman's.

My family loves to eat; it must be genetic.

So naturally many of my family members are big supporters of my blog. My cousin Nick, however, is a huge foodie much like myself and has been dying to join me on some of my adventures. Much to my pleasant surprise, he texted me at work today asking if we could go to Attman’s Deli with his lovely girlfriend Taylor (who navigated us there easily and by heart). Needless to say, I responded with a yes and right after I got off of work.

Attman’s Delicatessen on Lombard Street is (ironically) famous for being a little piece of New York in Baltimore. In fact, the sign says “New York Delicatessen.” The Deli is also famous for its Jewish-American food, such as potato knishes, kugle, and fresh kosher dill pickles. This is because the owning family, the Attman’s, are Jewish. Established in 1915 by Harry Attman, Attman's has earned its reputation for some of the best and most authentic corned beef in Baltimore, even being on “Corned Beef Row,” a very unique Baltimore landmark. “Corned Beef Row” is a few blocks of Lombard Street east of Little Italy and Presidents Street; Attman’s is always in competition with Lenny’s Deli and Weiss Deli, two other Jewish-owned, New York-style delicatessens. The reason Attman’s has remained so popular is because of their delicious, unchanging, inexpensive food and restaurant. The owning family is the same, the recipes are the same and by the looks of it the décor, lights, tables and signs are all the same as they have been for over 50 years. My father and grandfather can vouch for that: my dad remembers riding on the back of my grandfather’s horse (he was a Baltimore City Mounted Police Officer) to Attman’s in the 1960’s, which he says looked just as old when he was a kid.

When we got there at 3pm, which I assumed would be off-hours, the line was still to the back of the deli. It was so loud with the sounds of yelling, chatting and chopping that I had to yell over the tall counter that I wanted one corned beef on rye (no mustard), one hot pastrami on rye, two green dill pickles (green meaning freshly pickled) and five spicy red cherry peppers. Waiting for my food, I watched the staff fight and point knives at each other, in a range of accents ranging from inner-city, jewish-American, Italian and middle-eastern. I was absolutely fascinated that it really did seem like I had walked off the streets of Baltimore into a deli in the heart of New York City. I got my food, sat down in the dilapidated dining room adorned with old pictures, signs and paintings and experienced the most delicious pastrami south of New York. Attman’s also happens to be famous for their bologna-wrapped hotdog, a giant kosher beef dog wrapped in fried beef bologna with mustard and onions. Lucky for me, Nick ordered this strangely delicious food (which I remember my mom craving while pregnant with my sister) and saved me oh, a few thousand calories and being a beach ball for the rest of the day.

Although Attman’s food is not authentic to Baltimore, let alone Maryland, the way that the deli has been ingrained into the local culture has made it part of Baltimore, the living, breathing, melting-pot city made by immigrants and outsiders. The food is delicious, cheap and unpretentious, making the deli appealing to almost everyone on this middle-class city. Even those working behind the counter are the epitome of the city: a screaming, multicultural, slightly violent, bustling mess that somehow produces delicious food worthy of lines out the door.

References:

http://www.citypeek.com/baltimore/restaurant/attmans-delicatessen
http://baltimore.about.com/od/fooddrink/tp/cornedbeefrow.htm
http://www.attmansdeli.com/history.php

#72. OTTERBEIN'S COOKIES!!!!!!!!!!!

My boyfriend calls me a “lactard.”

This is in reference to my unfortunate lactose intolerance. Go figure though; lately I have been suffering through my new obsession with whole milk. And what better to go with whole milk than cookies? Specifically Otterbein’s Cookies. Otterbein’s Cookies are made in a bakery in Baltimore and I decided that they probably some of the best mass-produced cookies I have ever had before this blog was even thought of. The cookies are ultra-thin, light, extremely flavorful and pleasingly crunchy; each cookie is cut into a small triangle, circle, heart and gingerbread man shape making you feel like a little kid again.

Otterbein’s is a longtime Baltimore bakery tradition. The familiar cookies in the red and white-checked bag started churning out in 1881 when Adam Otterbein, a recent immigrant from Germany, opened a bakery near Fort McHenry. His German confections were popular but his sugar cookies quickly became his best seller. The cookies, thin and cut by hand, were a fast sellout and became well known throughout the city.

The business stayed in the family and, eventually, moved from Fort McHenry to Northeast Baltimore in the late 1950’s. Despite the change, the high demand for the sugar cookies did not change one bit. In 1996 Adam Otterbein’s great grandson Mark began producing the cookies wholesale and adding different varieties (such as gingerbread, lemon, oatmeal raisins and chocolate chip) as well as allowing bags of the cookies to be sold at grocery stores throughout the area. The cookies are relatively low priced, local and a family tradition which only adds to the appeal of the cookies and their reputation as top-sellers.

These cookies are another wonderful contribution of working-class immigrants, specifically German immigrants, to the city of Baltimore. Although the taste, texture, look and bag of Otterbein’s cookies have become a part with Baltimore food culture, their history as a home-style German recipe should not be forgotten.

References:

http://www.otterbeinsbakery.com/history/

#61. How about the fried green pepper rings at Gunnings?

It’s been kind of a hectic week.

While I originally intended to write this blog Thursday night, our electricity went out and I have been playing catch up on some chores that require the gift of our good friend Thomas Edison. Now that I have some time to sit and reflect on Thursday evening, I can also ask myself “What were you thinking??”

My dinner on Thursday evening was completely deep-fried. Battered deep-fried, green bell pepper rings dusted in powdered sugar and a battered deep fried crab cake served with deep fried fries. The explanation? Gunning’s Seafood. I’ve always known about Gunning’s; it is somewhat of a family tradition, being my grandfather’s favorite restaurant and a place where my mom worked for a few years when she was younger. Jumping at the opportunity to re-visit and eat some of her childhood favorites, my mom decided to treat me to some dinner. It was a perfect rainy day to go out for a late dinner and we got to hang out one-on-one, which is rare having two younger siblings.

Gunning’s was first opened in 1969 as a blue-collar bar by Andrew E. Gunning in South Baltimore on Hanover Street. In 1970, Andrew’s son Edward started bringing in bushels of steamed crabs and selling them for $9/dozen. Obviously, Gunning’s (now Gunning’s Crab House) became even more popular because of its inexpensive crabs and local neighborhood feel. As the crab house grew, it evolved into a restaurant and started including even more of the Gunnings family: Ed’s mother-in-law started working in the kitchen and introducing family recipes like pepper rings and crab fluffs to restaurant patrons. The continuing reputation for low prices and authentic Baltimore neighborhood feel made the restaurant popular to both locals and tourists, helping the restaurant to grow even more. The authenticity of the restaurant was (and still is) a huge draw to anyone because of the simple, Baltimore cuisine served at Gunning’s and the restaurant’s origins. Because of the public clamor for this popular, authentic Baltimore experience, a second restaurant was opened in Ocean City and thrived until a fire caused the family to close its doors. Regardless, Gunning’s retained its popularity and moved to a larger location in Hanover, Maryland about 15 minutes outside of the city, allowing the restaurant to stay local and service even more customers as well as maintain its cultural identity as a cheap, local family restaurant.

The restaurant menu has changed very little since the 1970’s; Gunning’s is now run by Ed Gunning, Jr. (Ed Senior’s grandson) and the family recipes that made the restaurant popular are still closely guarded and taste the exact same. My mother, who worked in the kitchen at Gunning’s, told me that all the batter, desserts and spices are pre-made and mixed to prevent anyone outside of the family from knowing what makes them so unique and delicious.

While I shudder now, Thursday night was definitely delicious and well worth the extra calories. Hanging out with my mom and using her as a primary informant (….I mean listening to her tell me old stories…) was a cool experience that showed me culture can be found in the lives of my own parents as well as in a deep-fryer.

References:

http://www.gunningsonline.com/maryland_seafood_crabs/baltimores_best_crab_houses_steamed_crabs.php

Terms:

Primary informant: main source of inside information about a particular culture