#29. Eat the pumpkin appetizer at the Helmand.

I am a big believer in food bringing people together.

This blog has allowed me to hang out with so many people that I haven’t spent much one-on-one time with lately or at all. Two people I’m super glad I got to spend time with are my cousin Molly and her husband Nick. They’ve been super supportive of my blog (as their whole family has been) since the beginning and (since before they got married this past June) they’ve been wanting to go on one of my little adventures with me.  We finally went on a rainy evening last week and it was probably one of the best meals of my whole summer.

The night we went to the Helmand, an Afghani restaurant in the beautiful Mount Vernon district of Baltimore city, Nick sent me a really fascinating email; he is a former Navy officer and a huge history buff. Apparently, the Helmand restaurant is named after the Helmand province in southwest Afghanistan. This area was originally an epicenter for agriculture in Afghanistan, due to the availability of water for irrigation supplied by the Helmand River. During the Cold War, the Helmand province was heavily developed by the United States; throughout the 1960’s, the US government built irrigation canals and a hydroelectric dam in order to help farmers grow food to aid the Taliban in their fight against the Soviet Union. When communists seized the region in 1978, the project was abandoned but much of the infrastructure remains; because of this remaining infrastructure, the area is now being used to grow opium. The Helmand province is now responsible for 75% of the world’s total opium production. The province is now heavily occupied and used by the Taliban, who are most certainly using the training, weapons and technology the US inadvertently supplied them with.

But enough politics.

The Helmand restaurant references the old farming era of the Helmand province; many of the dishes are old-style Afghani recipes, drawing from local crops (such as pumpkin, fig and carrots) and traditional meats (such as lamb). The menu is consistently traditional and perfectly priced for the portions. The kaddo borwani, was delicious and perfectly cooked; baked pumpkin topped with traditional, tangy Middle-eastern yogurt and spices, served with hot naan bread was simple, flavorful and fresh. It was hard to top, but the lamb meatballs and Afghani ice cream followed beautifully. The ice cream, vanilla flavored with honey, cinnamon and other spices, was served with cold pieces of figs and mangos and was one of the most delicious ice cream dishes I have ever had. The meal was all traditional and delicious, served in a setting as simple as the ingredients: Afghani artifacts and pictures graced the walls, simple white tablecloths covered the tables and light middle-eastern style music played.

The dinner conversation was as great as the meal. Molly and Nick are highly intelligent, curious and friendly. I enjoyed getting to know them on a personal level that being one of 31 cousins on that side often prohibits. It was funny watching them choose what dish they wanted; they had been the ones to suggest the more “adventurous” and “exotic” location and they stuck to their guns and ordered traditional Afghani three course meals from the restaurant week menu.

Although the Helmand restaurant is slightly expensive (i.e. less accessible to the average Baltimorean) and does not offer traditional Baltimore cuisine, it is an important part of Baltimore food culture. Located in an up-and-coming neighborhood full of other ethnic restaurants, the Helmand provides Baltimore residents with a taste of non-traditional foreign food. We have a little Italy, a Greektown and a plethora of Mexican and other Latin-inspired restaurants, but Afghani food is difficult to find. Due to recent politics, it is not often sought-out either. The Helmand, however, is consistently one of Baltimore’s best restaurants and I don’t believe it’s just because of the food. The friendly service, simple but elegant atmosphere and, of course, the delicious food bridge the cultural gap allowing customers to enjoy not only real, traditional Afghani food but real, traditional and non-politicized Afghani culture. This cultural education through food should (and does) encourage cultural open-mindedness and for that reason, the Helmand deserves the MVP for Baltimore food culture.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmand_Province

http://www.helmand.com/

#31. Thin crust pizza at Joe Squared

Its hip to be square!

And it’s definitely pretty hip at Joe-squared, a small restaurant on East North Avenue a block away from the colorful North Ave. Bridge and a few blocks from MICA. The restaurant does not disappoint its artsy neighborhood; in fact, MICA students are known to flock here for the extensive bar, gourmet pizza and live music.

But why is this place so “Baltimore”? Well, its not authentic to the city. You could find this place in any city; the distinguishing factors are the use of local art, music and last but not least local ingredients. In fact, not only are many of the ingredients used at Joe-squared local, but the free-range chicken used at the restaurant comes from Springfield Farm right outside of Baltimore, family-owned since the 17^th century.  How much more Baltimore can you get than supporting longtime local businesses?

The food and atmosphere is boho and edgy; local art adorns the dimly lit restaurant and a simple but exceptionally-stocked bar, and a performance area takes up the front third of the restaurant. Posters for local music performances line the walls and mica students file in for drinks and pizza. The food, though, is the most artistic thing in Joe-squared. The super-extensive menu has everything from gourmet chicken wings (spicy orange-jalepeno, anyone?), a page of flavored risotto and some of the most exotic, creative pizza I have ever seen. DISCLAIMER: I work in a pizza restaurant that has what I consider to be some of the best pizza ever. I am a pizza snob. I eat pizza almost every day and it is delicious, wish fresh, interesting ingredients and the best-tasting chewy crust. However, Joe-squared’s pizza is a completely different animal. The crust is thin and crunchy, the ingredients are a little more off-the-beaten-path, the sauce selection more extensive and the baking style is different (Joe-squared is coal-fired) making for a different flavor, texture and experience altogether.

After enjoying our debate on which beer to procure from the long, long list of domestics, imports and exotics, my parents and I decided on two 12” pizzas: the clam and bacon pizza and the weekly pizza special, which was the Cajun pizza (Brian wimped out and got pasta, but he DID try their 18-pepper chicken wings and calamari). Everything was delicious, complex, fresh and hot. The service made the food even better; everyone was friendly, helpful and attentive. Sort of like being waited on by a good friend.

Overall, the food is delicious. It brings authentic Baltimore cultural flair to the table (literally) in what has to be some of the best pizza ever. It’s a little on the pricey side, but when you split a 12” pizza with someone and have two drinks each the tab evens out to about $30, which is very accessible to the average MICA student or young professional (the avg. crowd demographic, from my observations). I think I’ve definitely found a new Baltimore favorite, where I can get European beer or Puerto Rican rum but still get crab on my pizza and listen to local talent. This is definitely the best of ALL worlds right here in Charm City.

References:

http://www.joesquared.com/

#11. Lake trout. And for those of us who watched "The Wire," have a grape soda with it.

Fun Fact: laketrout is neither trout nor from a lake.

               But if you are from Baltimore, you probably couldn’t care less, as long as you get some extra hot sauce on the side. “Laketrout” in Charm City refers to any fried white fish fillet, served in a similar manner to the chicken box with 2 slices of white bread and french fries.  The fish should be cheap, fried fresh and crispy, and the purpose of the bread is to soak up the grease. It sounds gross but trust me, there is no better Baltimore street food.

Laketrout was made famous by the popular television drama “The Wire” which was set in Baltimore, and by my idol Anthony Bourdain on his show “No Reservations.” Laketrout is truly a Baltimore phenomenon; this particular cultural cuisine does not exist outside the Baltimore Metropolitan Area. Despite its popularity, laketrout’s etymology is a mystery. Some people say it was just a catchy moniker started by roadside vendors. In his book Chesapeake Bay Cooking, author John Shields claims the name comes from a mix up of yell “Late trout! Late trout!” Baltimoreans misheard this as “Lake trout!” and the rest is history.

My favorite place to get laketrout is this hole in the wall called JJ’s Carryout right before the city line on Route 1. It’s run by the cutest and nicest Asian lady I’ve ever met in my life who has a major soft spot for my little brother and his chicken box habit. She always throws some free candy and extra hot sauce in our bag during check out. The inside of JJ’s is really simple and almost cluttered; there’s a counter for food and the store has the usual assortment of convenience store items and lottery machines. The food is made fresh and fast right in front of you and comes in huge quantities for ridiculously low prices. A 5-wing chicken box with fries, two laketrout meals (3 fillets and 2 slices of bread) and 3 cans of soda barely cost $13.  My brother eats like a linebacker and it’s a struggle to feed only him for less than $15, let alone him, my sister and me. The laketrout was thin, crispy, flaky and hot; perfect between the white bread and drenched in hot sauce.

Regardless of how it got its name, laketrout is a cheap and easy-to-find local favorite with origins in working-class kitchens. It’s a simple, local favorite and there’s not much to say about it than pass the hotsauce, hon.

Terms:

Street food: regional food often sold by a street-side vendor

Etymology the origin of a word and the historical development of its particular meaning

References:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=lake+trout

http://www2.citypaper.com/eat/review.asp?rid=5071

Downy ocean, hon: #17. Thrashers french fries from the boardwalk, #19. pit beef at Boog's, #26. Fisher's popcorn

I finally got my vacation from this blog…

…but not really. I’ve spent the past week down Ocean City, MD with my lovely family just relaxing, hanging out and, of course, eating. Some bona fide Baltimore foodie traditions were a must on our curriculum of boardwalk, mini-golf and beach which made this year’s trip seem almost like a delicious scavenger hunt.

First off though is why Ocean City is integral to Baltimore culture.  Ocean City is basically a giant sandbar off the southeastern coast of Maryland in Worcester County bordered by Delaware to the north. The entire area was once owned by Thomas Fenwick, an Englishman for whom the Delaware beach town north of Ocean City is named. In 1869 the first beach cottage was built by Isaac Coffin and was rented out to guests who arrived by a series of stage coaches and/or ferries. These types of cottages were enjoyed primarily by wealthy people who could afford the long journey and the time off of work, especially women and children who were sent by wealthy husbands in Baltimore, Wilmington, Philadelphia and Washington DC.  In fact, before 1870 Ocean City was known as a “Ladies’ Ocean Resort.”

In 1875, the first traditional hotel in Ocean City, The Atlantic Hotel (which still exists today), was opened; the 400 room resort included dancing and billiard rooms. By 1881, a line was completed, crossing Sinepuxent Bay from Berlin and allowing more people access to the shore. Unfortunately in 1933 a hurricane destroyed these train tracks, but the same hurricane formed the Ocean City Inlet, establishing the town as a major fishing port.

Post WWII, Ocean City experienced a major economic boom; in 1952 the bay bridge was completed making the beach accessible to those in the middle and working-classes. In 1964 access once again expanded with the completion of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, attracting beachgoers from southern areas. Business continued to expand in the 1970s with the construction of thousands of condominium units to accomidate the growing number of summer visitors. Restaurants and stores sprang up to take advantage of these numbers (many Baltimore restaurants opened locations at the beach!)  and the rest is history… some of these original beach food vendors still remain favorites at the beach.

All in all, Ocean City went from being a quiet, inaccessible resort town available only to those who could afford the time and money. After World War II and the completion of the bridge, summer vacations became a part of the American family experience and Ocean City became a relatively inexpensive, easily accessible and local beach getaway to city families, especially those hailing from Baltimore which was now only about two and a half hours away.

One of the oldest Ocean City beach food favorites is Thrashers French Fries is located on the boardwalk at 401 Atlantic Ave and has been there for over 80 years. In a partial outdoor stand, russet potatoes, vinegar, oil, and salt are freshly made HOURLY, providing thousands of people fresh fries daily. The smallest size bucket available is a pound and it is traditional to soak these fries in apple cider vinegar; no ketchup is available because the original owners thought it ruined the potato taste. For 80 plus years the recipe and preparation methods have remained largely unchanged, which is why I think the fries are so popular; they become a family tradition, a Maryland food heirloom. A trip to the boardwalk is a must just for the french fries for most beachgoers. Thrashers fries are only available on the DelMarVa strand, making them a true beach experience; they are also pretty cheap and sold in huge quantities. The fries are so popular that the line is sometimes 100 people long by the afternoon. Good thing my family always goes in the morning.

Boog’s Barbeque is one of the many Baltimore food traditions that made its way down the Ocean during an economic boom. Boog Powell, a Baltimore Oriole from back in the day, is famous for not only his 339 home runs in 17 years, four World Series and four All-Star teams, but his barbeque as well. In 1993, Mr. Powell opened Boog’s BBQ Stand in Camden Yards and saluted Baltimore tradition even further with his delectable pit beef. The barbeque became so popular at ball games, Boog expanded his barbeque business to reach his fan base in OC. The Ocean City location happens to be right next to Thrashers, which made for a convenient lunch experience.  Boog’s is delicious and relatively inexpensive, but you either have to go to Ocean City or Camden Yards to enjoy a the BBQ alongside true Baltimore culture.

Lastly, the icing of the cake so to speak, Fisher’s Popcorn. Fisher’s, a family-owned business, has been making one of Ocean City’s sweetest treats since 1937. Still in its original location at the Boardwalk on Talbot Street, Fisher’s still makes popcorn the same way it has been since opening. Every day popcorn is freshly popped and caramel is made in huge copper kettles; the popped corn is then coated with the fresh caramel and poured still hot into storefront containers, where it is freshly scooped into buckets and boxes for people who sometimes line up for the storefronts gates to rise at 9:30. The popcorn is cheap, fresh and shipped everywhere, easily making it one of the most accessible of beach foods.

As much as I would prefer a quiet beach experience, I really do savor the blue-collar feel that Ocean City sometimes gives off. The fact that the beach was available only to rich white women once-upon-a-time is just unthinkable to me; I really think the beach is something everyone should enjoy.  I really love nothing more than the sand between my toes, a book in hand and a cooler of sodas - the ultimate vacation of the American Dream. To Baltimore beachgoers though, this dream also includes Thrashers, Boog’s and Fishers as well.

Man, I love goin’ downy ocean, hon.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_City,_Maryland

http://blog.streaminggourmet.com/2010/08/20/thrashers-french-fries-best-fries-on-the-boardwalk-my-attempt-to-make-them-at-home/

http://espn.go.com/espn/thelife/news/story?id=2532700

http://www.fisherspopcorn.com/About-Us/