#29. Eat the pumpkin appetizer at the Helmand.

I am a big believer in food bringing people together.

This blog has allowed me to hang out with so many people that I haven’t spent much one-on-one time with lately or at all. Two people I’m super glad I got to spend time with are my cousin Molly and her husband Nick. They’ve been super supportive of my blog (as their whole family has been) since the beginning and (since before they got married this past June) they’ve been wanting to go on one of my little adventures with me.  We finally went on a rainy evening last week and it was probably one of the best meals of my whole summer.

The night we went to the Helmand, an Afghani restaurant in the beautiful Mount Vernon district of Baltimore city, Nick sent me a really fascinating email; he is a former Navy officer and a huge history buff. Apparently, the Helmand restaurant is named after the Helmand province in southwest Afghanistan. This area was originally an epicenter for agriculture in Afghanistan, due to the availability of water for irrigation supplied by the Helmand River. During the Cold War, the Helmand province was heavily developed by the United States; throughout the 1960’s, the US government built irrigation canals and a hydroelectric dam in order to help farmers grow food to aid the Taliban in their fight against the Soviet Union. When communists seized the region in 1978, the project was abandoned but much of the infrastructure remains; because of this remaining infrastructure, the area is now being used to grow opium. The Helmand province is now responsible for 75% of the world’s total opium production. The province is now heavily occupied and used by the Taliban, who are most certainly using the training, weapons and technology the US inadvertently supplied them with.

But enough politics.

The Helmand restaurant references the old farming era of the Helmand province; many of the dishes are old-style Afghani recipes, drawing from local crops (such as pumpkin, fig and carrots) and traditional meats (such as lamb). The menu is consistently traditional and perfectly priced for the portions. The kaddo borwani, was delicious and perfectly cooked; baked pumpkin topped with traditional, tangy Middle-eastern yogurt and spices, served with hot naan bread was simple, flavorful and fresh. It was hard to top, but the lamb meatballs and Afghani ice cream followed beautifully. The ice cream, vanilla flavored with honey, cinnamon and other spices, was served with cold pieces of figs and mangos and was one of the most delicious ice cream dishes I have ever had. The meal was all traditional and delicious, served in a setting as simple as the ingredients: Afghani artifacts and pictures graced the walls, simple white tablecloths covered the tables and light middle-eastern style music played.

The dinner conversation was as great as the meal. Molly and Nick are highly intelligent, curious and friendly. I enjoyed getting to know them on a personal level that being one of 31 cousins on that side often prohibits. It was funny watching them choose what dish they wanted; they had been the ones to suggest the more “adventurous” and “exotic” location and they stuck to their guns and ordered traditional Afghani three course meals from the restaurant week menu.

Although the Helmand restaurant is slightly expensive (i.e. less accessible to the average Baltimorean) and does not offer traditional Baltimore cuisine, it is an important part of Baltimore food culture. Located in an up-and-coming neighborhood full of other ethnic restaurants, the Helmand provides Baltimore residents with a taste of non-traditional foreign food. We have a little Italy, a Greektown and a plethora of Mexican and other Latin-inspired restaurants, but Afghani food is difficult to find. Due to recent politics, it is not often sought-out either. The Helmand, however, is consistently one of Baltimore’s best restaurants and I don’t believe it’s just because of the food. The friendly service, simple but elegant atmosphere and, of course, the delicious food bridge the cultural gap allowing customers to enjoy not only real, traditional Afghani food but real, traditional and non-politicized Afghani culture. This cultural education through food should (and does) encourage cultural open-mindedness and for that reason, the Helmand deserves the MVP for Baltimore food culture.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmand_Province

http://www.helmand.com/

#31. Thin crust pizza at Joe Squared

Its hip to be square!

And it’s definitely pretty hip at Joe-squared, a small restaurant on East North Avenue a block away from the colorful North Ave. Bridge and a few blocks from MICA. The restaurant does not disappoint its artsy neighborhood; in fact, MICA students are known to flock here for the extensive bar, gourmet pizza and live music.

But why is this place so “Baltimore”? Well, its not authentic to the city. You could find this place in any city; the distinguishing factors are the use of local art, music and last but not least local ingredients. In fact, not only are many of the ingredients used at Joe-squared local, but the free-range chicken used at the restaurant comes from Springfield Farm right outside of Baltimore, family-owned since the 17^th century.  How much more Baltimore can you get than supporting longtime local businesses?

The food and atmosphere is boho and edgy; local art adorns the dimly lit restaurant and a simple but exceptionally-stocked bar, and a performance area takes up the front third of the restaurant. Posters for local music performances line the walls and mica students file in for drinks and pizza. The food, though, is the most artistic thing in Joe-squared. The super-extensive menu has everything from gourmet chicken wings (spicy orange-jalepeno, anyone?), a page of flavored risotto and some of the most exotic, creative pizza I have ever seen. DISCLAIMER: I work in a pizza restaurant that has what I consider to be some of the best pizza ever. I am a pizza snob. I eat pizza almost every day and it is delicious, wish fresh, interesting ingredients and the best-tasting chewy crust. However, Joe-squared’s pizza is a completely different animal. The crust is thin and crunchy, the ingredients are a little more off-the-beaten-path, the sauce selection more extensive and the baking style is different (Joe-squared is coal-fired) making for a different flavor, texture and experience altogether.

After enjoying our debate on which beer to procure from the long, long list of domestics, imports and exotics, my parents and I decided on two 12” pizzas: the clam and bacon pizza and the weekly pizza special, which was the Cajun pizza (Brian wimped out and got pasta, but he DID try their 18-pepper chicken wings and calamari). Everything was delicious, complex, fresh and hot. The service made the food even better; everyone was friendly, helpful and attentive. Sort of like being waited on by a good friend.

Overall, the food is delicious. It brings authentic Baltimore cultural flair to the table (literally) in what has to be some of the best pizza ever. It’s a little on the pricey side, but when you split a 12” pizza with someone and have two drinks each the tab evens out to about $30, which is very accessible to the average MICA student or young professional (the avg. crowd demographic, from my observations). I think I’ve definitely found a new Baltimore favorite, where I can get European beer or Puerto Rican rum but still get crab on my pizza and listen to local talent. This is definitely the best of ALL worlds right here in Charm City.

References:

http://www.joesquared.com/

#11. Lake trout. And for those of us who watched "The Wire," have a grape soda with it.

Fun Fact: laketrout is neither trout nor from a lake.

               But if you are from Baltimore, you probably couldn’t care less, as long as you get some extra hot sauce on the side. “Laketrout” in Charm City refers to any fried white fish fillet, served in a similar manner to the chicken box with 2 slices of white bread and french fries.  The fish should be cheap, fried fresh and crispy, and the purpose of the bread is to soak up the grease. It sounds gross but trust me, there is no better Baltimore street food.

Laketrout was made famous by the popular television drama “The Wire” which was set in Baltimore, and by my idol Anthony Bourdain on his show “No Reservations.” Laketrout is truly a Baltimore phenomenon; this particular cultural cuisine does not exist outside the Baltimore Metropolitan Area. Despite its popularity, laketrout’s etymology is a mystery. Some people say it was just a catchy moniker started by roadside vendors. In his book Chesapeake Bay Cooking, author John Shields claims the name comes from a mix up of yell “Late trout! Late trout!” Baltimoreans misheard this as “Lake trout!” and the rest is history.

My favorite place to get laketrout is this hole in the wall called JJ’s Carryout right before the city line on Route 1. It’s run by the cutest and nicest Asian lady I’ve ever met in my life who has a major soft spot for my little brother and his chicken box habit. She always throws some free candy and extra hot sauce in our bag during check out. The inside of JJ’s is really simple and almost cluttered; there’s a counter for food and the store has the usual assortment of convenience store items and lottery machines. The food is made fresh and fast right in front of you and comes in huge quantities for ridiculously low prices. A 5-wing chicken box with fries, two laketrout meals (3 fillets and 2 slices of bread) and 3 cans of soda barely cost $13.  My brother eats like a linebacker and it’s a struggle to feed only him for less than $15, let alone him, my sister and me. The laketrout was thin, crispy, flaky and hot; perfect between the white bread and drenched in hot sauce.

Regardless of how it got its name, laketrout is a cheap and easy-to-find local favorite with origins in working-class kitchens. It’s a simple, local favorite and there’s not much to say about it than pass the hotsauce, hon.

Terms:

Street food: regional food often sold by a street-side vendor

Etymology the origin of a word and the historical development of its particular meaning

References:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=lake+trout

http://www2.citypaper.com/eat/review.asp?rid=5071

Downy ocean, hon: #17. Thrashers french fries from the boardwalk, #19. pit beef at Boog's, #26. Fisher's popcorn

I finally got my vacation from this blog…

…but not really. I’ve spent the past week down Ocean City, MD with my lovely family just relaxing, hanging out and, of course, eating. Some bona fide Baltimore foodie traditions were a must on our curriculum of boardwalk, mini-golf and beach which made this year’s trip seem almost like a delicious scavenger hunt.

First off though is why Ocean City is integral to Baltimore culture.  Ocean City is basically a giant sandbar off the southeastern coast of Maryland in Worcester County bordered by Delaware to the north. The entire area was once owned by Thomas Fenwick, an Englishman for whom the Delaware beach town north of Ocean City is named. In 1869 the first beach cottage was built by Isaac Coffin and was rented out to guests who arrived by a series of stage coaches and/or ferries. These types of cottages were enjoyed primarily by wealthy people who could afford the long journey and the time off of work, especially women and children who were sent by wealthy husbands in Baltimore, Wilmington, Philadelphia and Washington DC.  In fact, before 1870 Ocean City was known as a “Ladies’ Ocean Resort.”

In 1875, the first traditional hotel in Ocean City, The Atlantic Hotel (which still exists today), was opened; the 400 room resort included dancing and billiard rooms. By 1881, a line was completed, crossing Sinepuxent Bay from Berlin and allowing more people access to the shore. Unfortunately in 1933 a hurricane destroyed these train tracks, but the same hurricane formed the Ocean City Inlet, establishing the town as a major fishing port.

Post WWII, Ocean City experienced a major economic boom; in 1952 the bay bridge was completed making the beach accessible to those in the middle and working-classes. In 1964 access once again expanded with the completion of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, attracting beachgoers from southern areas. Business continued to expand in the 1970s with the construction of thousands of condominium units to accomidate the growing number of summer visitors. Restaurants and stores sprang up to take advantage of these numbers (many Baltimore restaurants opened locations at the beach!)  and the rest is history… some of these original beach food vendors still remain favorites at the beach.

All in all, Ocean City went from being a quiet, inaccessible resort town available only to those who could afford the time and money. After World War II and the completion of the bridge, summer vacations became a part of the American family experience and Ocean City became a relatively inexpensive, easily accessible and local beach getaway to city families, especially those hailing from Baltimore which was now only about two and a half hours away.

One of the oldest Ocean City beach food favorites is Thrashers French Fries is located on the boardwalk at 401 Atlantic Ave and has been there for over 80 years. In a partial outdoor stand, russet potatoes, vinegar, oil, and salt are freshly made HOURLY, providing thousands of people fresh fries daily. The smallest size bucket available is a pound and it is traditional to soak these fries in apple cider vinegar; no ketchup is available because the original owners thought it ruined the potato taste. For 80 plus years the recipe and preparation methods have remained largely unchanged, which is why I think the fries are so popular; they become a family tradition, a Maryland food heirloom. A trip to the boardwalk is a must just for the french fries for most beachgoers. Thrashers fries are only available on the DelMarVa strand, making them a true beach experience; they are also pretty cheap and sold in huge quantities. The fries are so popular that the line is sometimes 100 people long by the afternoon. Good thing my family always goes in the morning.

Boog’s Barbeque is one of the many Baltimore food traditions that made its way down the Ocean during an economic boom. Boog Powell, a Baltimore Oriole from back in the day, is famous for not only his 339 home runs in 17 years, four World Series and four All-Star teams, but his barbeque as well. In 1993, Mr. Powell opened Boog’s BBQ Stand in Camden Yards and saluted Baltimore tradition even further with his delectable pit beef. The barbeque became so popular at ball games, Boog expanded his barbeque business to reach his fan base in OC. The Ocean City location happens to be right next to Thrashers, which made for a convenient lunch experience.  Boog’s is delicious and relatively inexpensive, but you either have to go to Ocean City or Camden Yards to enjoy a the BBQ alongside true Baltimore culture.

Lastly, the icing of the cake so to speak, Fisher’s Popcorn. Fisher’s, a family-owned business, has been making one of Ocean City’s sweetest treats since 1937. Still in its original location at the Boardwalk on Talbot Street, Fisher’s still makes popcorn the same way it has been since opening. Every day popcorn is freshly popped and caramel is made in huge copper kettles; the popped corn is then coated with the fresh caramel and poured still hot into storefront containers, where it is freshly scooped into buckets and boxes for people who sometimes line up for the storefronts gates to rise at 9:30. The popcorn is cheap, fresh and shipped everywhere, easily making it one of the most accessible of beach foods.

As much as I would prefer a quiet beach experience, I really do savor the blue-collar feel that Ocean City sometimes gives off. The fact that the beach was available only to rich white women once-upon-a-time is just unthinkable to me; I really think the beach is something everyone should enjoy.  I really love nothing more than the sand between my toes, a book in hand and a cooler of sodas - the ultimate vacation of the American Dream. To Baltimore beachgoers though, this dream also includes Thrashers, Boog’s and Fishers as well.

Man, I love goin’ downy ocean, hon.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_City,_Maryland

http://blog.streaminggourmet.com/2010/08/20/thrashers-french-fries-best-fries-on-the-boardwalk-my-attempt-to-make-them-at-home/

http://espn.go.com/espn/thelife/news/story?id=2532700

http://www.fisherspopcorn.com/About-Us/

#12. Breakfast at Blue Moon Cafe down in Fells Point and #36. Change your mind about vegan/vegetarian food at Liquid Earth.

Baltimore is an eccentric city.

        You’ve probably figured that much out by reading my blog. “Hon” culture is hard to describe and can be best summarized as a quirky and extremely diverse melting pot of culture from any and everywhere. So, living here, you’d think you’d be immune to the oddities… until you walk into the Blue Moon Café and see a bat hanging off the ceiling and a huge plate of Captain Crunch French toast in front of you. The bat is fake, the French toast is definitely not. It’s definitely the oddest and one of the most delicious food’s I have ever heard of. In fact, if you watch “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives” on Food Network, you’d probably seen this dish. Yes, it is that good and yes it is very famous.

        The Blue Moon was opened by Sarah Simington and her mother Sherri in Fells Point in 1996. Sherri’s diner experience paired with Sarah’s mission to put culture back into food made the café an instant success. Sarah’s rock’n’roll, quirky, bright style is present in the restaurant immediately upon wlking in. Bright blue Christmas lights line the walls, mini statues of Elvis, decorative pint glasses, a Halloween skeleton and yes, a fake bat, make you feel like you’re walking into someone’s kitchen instead of a busy rowhouse diner. Sherri’s traditional diner cooking is present in the smells and style of food that includes diner breakfast classics like hotcakes and hash browns. The two come together in dishes like Captain Crunch French toast or, in a brlliant culinary salute to Baltimore, crab meat benedict. Everything is fresh and beautifully presented, as if every customer is a food writer (or blogger). The food doesn’t come out very fast, but this is not surprising. My cousin annie and I grabbed the last open table at 8:45 AM and fifteen minutes later there was a waiting list 12 people deep. Good things come to those who wait, though, and the food is obviously prepared fresh with lots of love.

        The Baltimore culture is obvious here: from the eclectic décor, the Baltimore delecacies that appear on the menu, to the location in a row house in Fells Point the plce just screams “HON!” The food is also pretty inexpensive considering the quality and amount; annie and I both had huge scrambled ommelettes with half a plate of fresh hash browns, fruit, English muffins and salsa for under $22.00.

        Walking out of the Blue Moon I was pleasantly surprised to find Liquid Earth, the vegan/vegetarian deli and juice bar that also happens to make an appearance on my blog. Opening in 1998, the restaurants goal is to provide access to delicious, healthy eating. Using local ingredients, specific preparation techniques and a modern niche for healthy and organic eating in a suddenly young, hip and revitalized city, Liquid Earth has been widely successful. Consider the neighborhood of Fells Point: founded in 1729 by William Fell, a british ship builder, the neighborhood is obviously a historic district complete with some original cobbled streets that have stood the test of time. The neighborhood has also involved to be one of the hippest neighborhoods in the state, complete with boutique shopping, restaurants and over 120 bars and pubs. The demographic is definitely the young, professional crowd; exactly the type to frequent Liquid Earth. I skipped the vegan food but i did get a delicious green apple and ginger fruit juice to take to work... healthy never tasted so good.

        All I can say is, next time I’m in Canton, I am definitely looking forward to visiting a few of those 120 bars and picking up some Captain Crunch French toast afterwards… Blue Moon is open 24 hours on weekends so hopefully the line is a lot shorter.

References:

http://bluemoonbaltimore.com/the-story/

http://www.liquidearth.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fells_Point,_Baltimore

97. Eat the Berger cookie pie at Dangerously Delicious Pies in Federal Hill. A new tradition built on the old.

When thinking of pie, one probably does not think of rock’n’roll.

Actually, one probably thinks of a wholesome, Midwest grandma pulling an apple pie out of her oven. This is definitely not the case at Dangerously Delicious in Canton, just a few blocks from downtown Baltimore. Canton is, in itself, its own party. Some of Baltimore’s best bars are located in this waterside district that started off, surprisingly, as a plantation belonging to seaman John O'Donnell. O’Donnell’s waterside plantation was nicknamed “Canton” after an old pronunciation of the riverside trading city city of Guangzhou, China. John O'Donnell was the first person to transport goods from this city to Baltimore and, when son Columbus sold the land in order to expand waterfront industrial endeavors and provide housing for the blue collar workers they employed,  the neighborhood had kept its original moniker. The main street running through Canton is still named after the original occupants: O’Donnell Street, which is where I found myself today in search of pie.

Dangerously Delicious is a gourmet pie shop owned and operated by local musician Rodney Henry of The Glenmont Popes. Ten years ago, the little shop in Canton became famous for their delicious, home-baked pies made with local ingredients and for the coffeehouse vibe, complete with live music. The shop looks like nothing special from the outside, or the inside for that manner, besides the pie. It’s a bare-bones establishment with a counter where the pies are made, a large chalkboard menu and a small black stage inside the red room. The smell is phenomenal, though and the pies on display definitely look like works of art.

The reason why these pies are so Baltimore? Local ingredients; many of the pies actually feature Baltimore specialties, like the “Baltimore Bomb” pie, a chess pie topped with Berger cookies and baked until gooey. The crab and cheddar quiche as well as “Mobtown Brown” pecan pie also give salute to Charm City. Also, location; Canton is a highly populated, much frequented destination for bars, restaurants, etc. Many of my future blog escapades will take place only a few blocks from Dangerously Delicious. Although the pies are expensive ($28 per sweet pie or quiche and $35 for savory pies) they are made with love, prime ingredients and a little rock’n’roll. The man making the pies when I popped in today was a giant, slightly-scary looking guy that looked a bit like a biker, however he was lovingly rolling pie pastry and filling fruit pies while I watched, just like the Midwest granny would have.

Dangerously Delicious is unexpected and one-of-a-kind, just like Baltimore. Baltimore lacks any true stereotype, but that’s what’s so fun about it here. Keep a look out for the black armored truck with the pie-and-crossbones logo and you’ll see guys with tattoo’s passing out the most delicious pie you’ve ever had.

PS- This pie is a favorite of Duff’s, from Charm City Cakes, if this blog wasn’t enough to make you wanna try the pie.

References:

http://dangerouspies.com/home/?page_id=70

http://www2.citypaper.com/bob/story.asp?id=16481

http://www.americanpieways.com/americanpieways/dangerously-delicious-pies

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canton,_Baltimore

#44. Veal Chop at DaMimmo and a #45. Bookmaker salad at Sabatino's

I have been spending way too much time in Little Italy these days.

But of all Baltimore neighborhoods to frequent, Little Italy has to be one of the best, especially if you are a hardcore foodie such as me. Yesterday for dinner, my mom decided she had a craving for Italian food, so I stepped right up and suggested Sabatino’s, an old family favorite. Baptisms, first holy communions, engagement parties and birthdays in the family have always been celebrated at this old-school Little Italy favorite and it had been a while since we’ve visited.

Sitting on the corner of Fawn Street in the center of Little Italy, Sabatino’s has been owned by the same family and producing the same delicious dishes for over 50 years. Over those years, the restaurant has been consistently voted as having some of the best food in Baltimore with their 100% homemade central and southern Italian food and some of the best and most unique wait staff in town.  

The wait staff at Sabatino’s is entirely female. Sure there are male busboys, chefs and hosts but every waiter is, in fact, a waitress. It has been explained that women are more personable, more adept at this “traditional” female occupation and have better memories, but what it all boils down to is tradition. And speaking of great memories, I have never seen a Sabatino’s waitress ever write down an order; they all simply remember who got what and how it is to be prepared and have developed a reputation for this talent amongst locals.

The food is also nothing to sniff about. Imagine you have an Italian aunt who makes delicious, homemade and authentic Italian food that is consistently good every time like only home-style, time-worn recipes can be. That’s how Sabatino’s is. Except it costs money, but not that much especially for the quality. The best dishes are unarguably the Bookmaker Salad and the fettuccine alfredo. The fettuccine is delicious simply because the noodles and the creamy cheese sauce are 100% homemade, deliciously seasoned and there is a lot of it. The Bookmaker, however, is a bit more complex. Start with a huge pile of romaine and iceburg lettuce; add tender peeled shrimp, chopped Genoa salami and provolone cheese, pepperoncini peppers and the famous Sabatino’s house dressing. When asked what is in their dressing, the staff never reveals but I can say that the main ingredients are oil, vinegar and lots of Romano cheese.  It is the Italian answer to the chef salad and I still cannot finish a whole one, despite my ability to “put it away.”

Sabatino’s has become such a Baltimore tradition, it is used for parties and occasions daily, it is a local “Best Of” and has become a go-to for tourists. I happened to be sitting next to a group of MLB umpires yesterday at dinner and even overheard them saying this is their favorite restaurant in their favorite city to travel to and eat in. Now that’s a huge compliment, umpires saying they love Baltimore, because they sure don’t have any love for the O’s.

Too full to even move post-Sabatino’s, I figured I’d pick up a veal chop from DaMimmo’s right next door. You know, for later. Kill two blog-birds with one stone.

DaMimmo’s is another highly sought after Italian restaurant in little Italy. Although it is a lot younger and not as ingrained into Baltimore food culture, they do serve an award-winning veal chop. Each chop is tender, butterflied, marinated in garlic, rosemary and sage charbroiled until hot and juicy. The restaurant opened in 1984 and has since developed a reputation for being upscale (limo service from downtown, anyone?) and having a large, diverse menu with dishes from every region in Italy. Accessible? Not as much as other restaurants; it’s pretty pricey. Authentic? Yes, for Italian food. Culturally relevant to Baltimore? Only insofar as their famous veal chop goes. Regardless, the veal chop was delicious with a glass of wine when I split it with my dad as a late night snack.

Veal and wine before bed? Looks like Baltimore’s classy side is starting to come out in me, hon.

References:

http://www.sabatinos.com/

http://www.damimmo.com/index.phpc

http://www.littleitalymaryland.com/little_italy_baltimore_restaurants_sabatinos.htm