I finally experienced some culture shock in Baltimore. My dad has warned me against going to Lexington Market (on Lexington Street in West Baltimore) without him and I’ve been pretty exasperated as of lately, as I’d been to the general area several times of late for other blog adventures. Before this afternoon, I thought myself capable of walking anywhere in the city at almost any time without any sort of shock or apprehension. I guess I have been a little more sheltered than I thought.
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Lexington Street is actually a tough area. Driving through a neighborhood is nothing compared to walking the streets; seeing people up close instead of flying by them in your car, smelling and hearing everything, avoiding panhandlers, if you’re me, experiencing a culture that is so unlike your own you are shocked in the realization that it is less than ten miles from your quiet suburban neighborhood. Lexington Street is what some of my black friends refer to as “the hood.” It is a predominantly African-American, low-income city neighborhood with above-average crime rates and dilapidated buildings that brings to mind scenes from “The Wire.” Walking into the market, I was hyper-aware of my appearance: skinny white girl in skinny-white girl, preppy clothes and preppy sunglasses. Suddenly and for one of the few times in my life, I felt like the absolute minority. Someone who in no way blended in, in an almost uncomfortable way. You may hear about these feelings in anthropology classes and brush them off or think of them as things you only feel in “exotic” field locations, but I can honestly say I have felt those feelings twice now in the same county, state and country I have lived in all my life.
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Lexington Street was not always been the inner-city neighborhood it is today. Lexington Market was a famed shopping district in Baltimore since the 18th century, home of various department and clothing stores and Lexington Market. The area was also home to a luxury hotel, The Utah House until 1835 when it was replaced with another high-class establishment: The Hippodrome Theater, which was the home to fine arts and one of the most popular Vaudeville destinations in the Mid-Atlantic. Lexington Market, however, was the heart and soul of the area; it is the longest continuously running market in the country, established in 1782 on the original site on land donated by General John E. Howard (who Howard County is named after). What was originally called the Western Precincts Market was an open air market, with farmers from Towson and Reisterstown (farm land back in the day…) pulling their wagons onto the property and selling their wares. In 1803, the market expanded from Eutaw Street all the way down to Lexington Street, the market’s current namesake. Eventually a building with stalls was built as business blossomed and more and more product was sold. Lexington Market became part of the famed Baltimore City Public Market system, including the Hollins, Cross Street, Broadway and Old Town markets, many of which are still open as well.
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The downfall of the area came not from the fire of 1949 that destroyed the Hippodrome, but from the riots of 1968 when Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated. After the riots, urban areas throughout the country deteriorated as product of “white flight;” wealthy businesses moved out of the areas in fear of more violence and unease.
Regardless of the changes in the area, Lexington Market remains as popular as ever, albeit differences in both vendors and customers. The goods sold have expanded from fruits, vegetables, meats and fishmongers to 140 vendors selling all that as well as baked goods, international cuisine, soul food, deli’s, candy, etc. Some of Baltimore’s most well-known hometown favorites have stalls here such as Rheb’s Candies, Mary Mervis Deli, Polack Johnny’s, Faidley’s Seafood and Berger’s Bakery.
My trip to Lexington Market was not a leisurely stroll through the booths, but rather a mission: I was out to find an authentic chicken box, compare it to ANOTHER chicken box, sample some fried chicken livers and, drum roll please, a famous Faidley’s crab cake
- 9. Get a chicken box (fried wings, western fries, dinner roll) from a Baltimore City public market.
- 10. Maybe the chicken box should be from Tyrone's?
-52. Fried chicken livers from the Lexington Market
- 1. Have a jumbo lump crab cake from Faidley's on a Saltine.
I was accompanied by my whole family and my dad’s father, my Pop, a retired Baltimore City Mounted Police officer and, like my parents, an old hand at Lexington Market. We split up, a la Scooby Doo, and met in the food court with our findings. While my sister and grandfather opted for huge deli sandwiches, my brother and I both came back with chicken boxes, his from Tyrone’s, mine from Park’s. His box included white bread and two breasts and two slices of white bread and mine had two thighs, two legs and collard greens (which were phenomenal). A traditional chicken box has a half a chicken, white bread and “western fries” but I was more concerned about the flavor of the chicken. Park’s chicken had a thick and crunchy crust and was doused in hot sauce. The meat was dark but just as juicy and tender as any white meat I’ve ever had. Tyrone’s chicken has a bit of a thinner crunchier crust and was the biggest chicken breast I have ever seen in my life. Personally, I think Park’s is the best because of the thick crust but with the plethora of locations where fried chicken is sold in the market, I’m sure my opinion is a bit unreliable.
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My last stop in the market today was Faidley’s, which is a Baltimore institution in itself. Not only is Faidley’s is the oldest vendor in Lexington Market, but it may be one of the oldest family-run businesses in the city. Faidley’s is has its own wing in Lexington market, complete with several counters and a raw bar. Founded in 1886 by John W. Faidley, Sr., the seafood has become somewhat of a legend in these parts.
In search of a crab cake, I made my way to one of them and struck up a conversation with the woman helping me. I told her about my blog and she said to me “If you wanna talk to the boss, she’s right there,” pointing to a stately looking older lady at another counter, dressed nicely but still wearing rubber gloves and a Faidley’s apron. A golden opportunity for an interview with the best possible informant I could ask for. I introduced myself to Ms. Nancy Devine, nee Faidley, and asked her if there were any interesting about Faidley’s I had not read online. She told me that she was third generation in a family that sold seafood at Lexington Market, originally just selling fish and other seafood, not yet cooked food. She told me that the market had been popular for everyone in the city and that alumni of University of Baltimore Law School and The UMD Medical, Nursing and Dental schools sometimes met at Faidley’s for reunions, bringing back memories of walking here for lunch when they were just students. She told me that Faidley’’s crab cakes had become such an institution, she personally provided crab cakes to ex-Senator Barbra Mikulski for a birthday luncheon, who’s astounded invitees included female senators from all over the nation; they had never had a crab cake like Faidley’s and were shocked to hear they came from a public market and not a gourmet restaurant.
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All in all, Ms. Nancy reminded me of Lexington Market and Baltimore: elegance found in the most unusual setting and not someone you would want to mess with, despite her age. Lexington Market and the city of Baltimore have changed around her for years, but she and Faidley’s are still there and just as successful as ever. Lexington Market is a testament to the fact that sometimes the best and most authentic foods are found in areas not frequented by tourists (or even more wealthy residents), but low-income areas where the culture of a city is least affected by the effects of globalization like sushi, iphones and Starbucks. What is left is authentic food; the recipes handed down for generations and sold at low prices. The people that serve it are hardworking and experienced, often having done this for most of their lives, and friendly as anything, “Hon’s” and “baby’s” flying around as they only can in this city. The market and the food sold inside have become deeply ingrained into the local culture, as one can see by how well known the food is and the generations of people who flock to the market to eat it. Who can blame them? The food is quintessentially Baltimore; one only has to be a little braver and more open-minded to get to it.
Terms:
Culture shock: The feeling of disorientation experienced by someone who is suddenly subjected to an unfamiliar culture, way of life, or set of attitudes
References:
http://www.lexingtonmarket.com/
Baltimore is an eccentric city.
The Blue Moon was opened by Sarah Simington and her mother Sherri in Fells Point in 1996. Sherri’s diner experience paired with Sarah’s mission to put culture back into food made the café an instant success. Sarah’s rock’n’roll, quirky, bright style is present in the restaurant immediately upon wlking in. Bright blue Christmas lights line the walls, mini statues of Elvis, decorative pint glasses, a Halloween skeleton and yes, a fake bat, make you feel like you’re walking into someone’s kitchen instead of a busy rowhouse diner. Sherri’s traditional diner cooking is present in the smells and style of food that includes diner breakfast classics like hotcakes and hash browns. The two come together in dishes like Captain Crunch French toast or, in a brlliant culinary salute to Baltimore, crab meat benedict. Everything is fresh and beautifully presented, as if every customer is a food writer (or blogger). The food doesn’t come out very fast, but this is not surprising. My cousin annie and I grabbed the last open table at 8:45 AM and fifteen minutes later there was a waiting list 12 people deep. Good things come to those who wait, though, and the food is obviously prepared fresh with lots of love. 
